Meritage dinner @ The Boston Wine Festival

    Friday night my wife and I had the pleasure of attending the Meritage Madness dinner as part of Chef Daniel Bruces' Boston Wine Festival dinner series, info here.  Eight different Bordeaux blends from Napa and Sonoma were served blind two at a time with four specially inspired and created dishes by Chef Daniel Bruce. Each wine inspired and matched a different aspect of the dish we were told. The wines and the food were both outstanding. Below are my notes on the wines.

                       FLIGHT 1

Wine #1.   Expressive nose of bright red and black fruits, toasty oak, cocoa. Medium plus body, cherry, cassis, vanilla and bitter chocolate. Moderate tannins and long finish. 90pts.
black
Wine #2.  Expressive nose of black fruits, more earthy than wine 1 with spice and herbs. Denser palate of black cherry, blackberry, herbs and a long smooth spicy finish. 92pts.

   Served with

Dry Rubbed Seared Yellow Fin Tuna

Fava Beans, Garbanzos, Red Pearl Onions.

FLIGHT 2

Wine #3. Expressive nose black and blue fruits, licorice, and earth. Medium plus body of blackberry, cocoa, leather and red flowers. Noticeable tannins. 90pts.

Wine #4. Moderate nose of black raspberry, cherry, thyme and tobacco. Medium body of black fruits, dusty earth and some licorice. Medium finish. 88pts.

   Served with

Slow cooked Duck and Thyme Tortello

Chestnut Sauce and Meritage Syrup

FLIGHT 3

Wine #5. Big nose of blackberry, currants, vanilla, violets, earth and pipe tobacco. Medium plus, rich wine with blackberry, kirsch, cocoa and tobacco notes. Long silky finish. 94pts.

Wine #6. Remarkably similar nose and palate to wine #5, a slight bit earthier and lighter so the oak is not as noticeable, although the oak in wine #5 is in balance and not dominant. 93pts.

    Served with

Five Spice Rubbed Roast Lamb Sirloin

German Butterball Potatoes and Spigarello Greens

FLIGHT 4

Wine #7. Expressive nose of blackberry, plums, spices and toasted coconut. Plush wine with creme de cassis, black cherry, white pepper, and espresso. Fine tannins and long finish. 94pts.

Wine #8. Moderate nose of black fruits, earth, and some off putting onion notes that slowly dissipated with time but never completely went away. Medium body of black currants, tart cherry, and spice. Medium light astringent finish. Possible sulfer flaw? NR.

   Served with

Parmesan and Cheddar Souffle

Wild Mushrooms and Shaved Speck.

     There was a loose vote taken after all the wines were served and my best guess would be this order

#1 Wine 5   2009 Joseph Phelps Insignia

#2  Wine 6  2009 Quintessa

#3 Wine 7  2008 Miner The Oracle

#4 Wine 2  2007 H.D.V. Belle Cousine

#5 Wine 1  2008 Chimney Rock Elevage

#6 Wine 3  2003 Viader Estate Red

#7 Wine 4  2009 Page Proprietary Blend

#8 Wine 8  2009 Peter Michael Les Pavots

Rankings 2-6 could possibly be in any order, that is how close they were, wines 4 and 8 may not have received any votes.





The high alcohol syrah aging myth

     Last week I came across 2 separate articles regarding the aging of  California syrah , one Here,  Wine Review Online with W. Blake Grey and another from Levi Dalton's I'll drink to that podcast from 1/15 with John Gilman.Both men make the case that California syrah cannot age and imply that the alcohol levels are responsible.
      Mr. Grey states that in 2010 he brought back from his wine locker  a half a dozen 2004 cal. syrahs that he loved on release and now were undrinkable, proving that California syrah can't age and at the end of the article he makes the case that it is all about alcohol level for him. Now without knowing specifically what wines Mr Grey brought back from the 2004 vintage I can't argue that he is wrong regarding those wines, but I can argue that he is way off regarding the aging of California syrah. Having recently had an 06 Pax Griffins Lair that came in at 15.1% alcohol, and noting it was as good now as ever, along with a 2005 Scholium Project Tenbrick petite sirah that comes in at 15.7% and was still drinking great. I believe it still comes down to style preference, Pax Mahle, the wine maker for the 06 Griffins Lair I mentioned has commented on the record that he didn't like the way his wines were aging and changed his style when he started his new project Wind Gap, but for everyone that is complaining about high alcohol syrahs not aging well there are just as many wine drinkers on CellarTracker posting notes on 7 year old 15% Saxum wines that are still loving them. So maybe it is more about changing tastes than the wine actually not aging well.
       Mr. Gilman, on the podcast, states that it is very rare for high alcohol wines to age well and that after 2 or 3 years people are trying the wines and saying I don't like that wine at all. I would expect that maybe those people don't like the style of wine to begin with, Mr. Gilman admits to not enjoying those wines and having an old world palate, and are foolishly expecting the wine to some how change to a more old world wine with time in the cellar. We get it, you don't like big new world wines, I don't see the need to put down a whole style of wine to validate your preferences. I'm guessing that there are still more wines available in Mr. Gilmans "old world" style than he could buy or drink in his lifetime.  I am also on the Rhys allocation list, the winery mentioned by Mr. Gilman as suiting his style, and recently had the 09 Horseshoe syrah and found it very mediocre, it had one dominant flavor of black pepper and little else with an extremely light body and that makes it a very bad qpr imho at $60.00, and I've had conversations with other Rhys drinkers who said my note for the most part was spot on but they loved the wine. Different strokes I guess and that is the important issue. Drink what you like! We don't need you to like these "oversize caricatures" of wines. As it is the mailing lists for Saxum, Carlisle, Alban, SQN are all full with long waits.
           This idea that Robert Parker is the only one who appreciates the big flavorful style of wine and everybody else is just point chasing is laughable and short sighted, I know and drink with more than a few people who enjoy new world wines more than old and have been doing so for years.
        There are wine styles and regions I don't like or understand well. Burgundy too shrill and acidic with no body. Beaujolais uninteresting. Spanish reds always seem musty to me.I don't see the need to rail against the winemakers,criticizing them and  wanting them to make a different style of wine, I just don't buy them. I will continue to occasionally try them to see if my tastes or their styles have changed, but I know there is more  wine being made in a style that I enjoy than I can ever buy, so why would I care what the other producers are doing? Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and that is all this is. :)
           Wine is constant proof that God loves us and loves to see us happy.
~Benjamin Franklin
      

Random notes

   Being that we are now  into the winter mailers and wine clubs, I have been recently checking in on some of my allocated wines to determine if I wish to remain on all the lists.Some of the wines can be quite expensive and it would be nice to pare down some of my wine buying.

2010 Myriad Cellars Syrah Esther Block Las Madres Vineyard

 2 hr decant. Got the Myriad Quivet shipping notice so decided to open this. WOW nose, black and blue fruits, olives, floral notes and herbs. Medium plus palate with blackberry,currant, smoked meats, and herbs. Long silky finish. :) Myriad is a keeper for sure.

 

2007 Tercero Grenache Camp 4 Vineyard

 1 hr decant. Great expressive nose of black cherry,raspberries, baking spice and black pepper. Medium plus body of black raspberry, dried cherries, baking spice and a long finish.This wine was a real pleasure to drink and was a considerable improvement over an already enjoyable wine 2 years ago. This wine was an eye opener for me as far as grenache goes.

 

2008 Rhys Pinot Noir Family Farm Vineyard

 1 hr decant. Moderate nose of red cherry, earth and violets. Medium body of sour cherry, cinnamon, and some citrus notes. Medium finish.

 

 

2009 Rhys Syrah Horseshoe Vineyard

 2 hr decant. Nose is dominated by black pepper with hints of dark fruit. Light palate also showing mostly black pepper and some floral notes. Medium finish, not a lot going on with this wine.

Based on these last 2 wines which each cost about $60 I will be letting my future allocations go by, not worth the money in my opinion.

 

2009 Betz Family Cabernet Sauvignon Père de Famille

 1-1/2 hr decant. Expressive nose of ripe black fruits, cocoa and dried herbs. Big and rich but also bright with red and black fruits, bitter chocolate and cedar notes. Long silky finish. Another keeper for sure.

 

 

2011 Massican Annia

 Bright nose of citrus, honeysuckle and apricots. Medium plus acidity, white flowers, lemon, apple and a slightly honeyed finish.

 

 

2010 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast

 Expressive nose of cherry, cranberry, floral notes and spice. Really nice body starting out with soft red fruits and finishing with more earth and floral notes. Long smooth finish. Great QPR at $25

 

2010 Liquid Farm Chardonnay Golden Slope

 Wow, this wine has it all. Expressive nose of lemon curd, stone fruits, some tropical fruit and wet stone. Medium body with flavors from citrus, ripe tropical fruits, stone fruits, vanilla and minerality that are seamless and balanced.

 

 

To decant or not.......

   Like most issues regarding wine, decanting is  highly debated, and also like most issues regarding wine comes down to a matter of preference.

decanting  present participle of de·cant (Verb)

Verb

1. Gradually pour (liquid, typically wine or a solution) from one container into another, esp. without disturbing the sediment.

  Why decant?
     
              There are mainly two reasons to decant a wine, the first to separate the wine from any sediment that is in the bottle.  Less common nowadays due to fining and filtering procedures, bottled wine can still develop sediment over time, usually caused from tannins, the sediment can impart some bitter notes to the wine if it makes it to your glass.Decanting for sediment is the process of slowly pouring the wine into another vessel (decanter image) while watching for the sediment and stopping when it gets close to the bottles neck, it can also be done in collaboration with a screen and funnel type aerator image.
              Decanting is also used to help wines bring out their flavors and aromas, although this is the controversial part, My own non scientific research has proven this out, especially with bigger tannic wines, whose flavors and aromas are sometimes muted early on.My wife, being a lover of pitchers, vases and glasses, had purchased decanters early on in our wine journey, before they became the staple they are now.
              I used to only decant older wines or bigger tannic more expensive reds until one night I poured myself a glass of Franciscan cabernet, the $19 bottle this one, after taking a sip I left it on the counter to take a phone call and forgot about it for an hour. When I came back the wine had changed noticeably for the better,  just like the more expensive wines who knew :) . and since then if I have time I will decant almost all my wines. I have used the funnel type aerator above into a glass and noticed the wines nose improved significantly, but not as much on the palate, and also have poured wine rapidly from one glass to another back and forth to aerate quickly with mixed results. Ultimately it seems to me that for the palate the wine needs the time to open up. There is also a small group that recommends putting wine in a blender to aerate it, but I haven't tried that one yet.
           I have heard the argument that some have made, that they prefer to follow a wines progression as it opens up and evolves and that is fine, but prefer to start following that progression from a better place.

Larkmead Vineyards

  I had been on the Larkmead Allocation list since 2010 and this fall I decided to cancel my allocation due to increasing prices and a need to cut down my wine purchases. I actually mentioned this recently in a thread on the Wine Berserkers forum and received a nice email from Colin, the GM at Larkmead explaining the philosophy and reasons for the rising costs along with a nice offer. So I decided to open a Larkmead 2009 LMV Salon last night and to go over some older notes to help reevaluate my position. I have always thought the wines are a great value for the price range, but after 3 mediocre to poor years of business I was a little put off by the pricing and now I'm thinking maybe I made the decision for the wrong reasons. These wines are still a value, even for the higher priced wines.
http://www.larkmead.com/larkmead_vineyards/

2009 Larkmead Vineyards LMV Salon

 

2 hr decant. Big expressive nose of blackberry, dark cherry, licorice and tobacco. Rich and well built full of everything that I love in California cabernet. Red and black fruits, cedar, floral notes and a long sweet pipe tobacco finish. 93

2008 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Solari

2 hr decant. Expressive nose of blackberry, creme de cassis, camphor and cocoa. Medium plus body of blackberry, black cherry, tobacco leaf and semi sweet chocolate. Long silky finish. 93

 

 

2009 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

 1 Hr decant. Moderate nose of black cherry, blackberry, violet and espresso bean. Medium plus body of blackberry liqueur, mocha, cedar and spice. Medium plus drying finish this wine was pretty tight and would benefit from more air. 91

2009 Larkmead Vineyards Firebelle

 1 hr decant. Expressive nose of black cherry, currants, mocha and sandalwood. Medium body takes on weight as the night goes on. Blackberry, cherry, vanilla bean and some spice notes. Long smooth finish.92

 

2007 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon.

1 hr decant. Expressive nose of creme di cassis, blackberry, cigar box, violets and soy. Medium plus body blackberry liqueur, kirsch, vanilla, and camphor. Long smooth silky finish. 93

 

2006 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

 1 hour decant, consumed over 2 hours. Wonderful nose of black currant with some floral and graphite notes. On the palete the dark fruits are really well balanced with some earth, chocolate and subtle spice notes. Really well balanced, with nice lift and well integrated tannins. Drinking very well right now. 92

2007 Larkmead Vineyards Firebelle

 1 Hr decant. Very expressive nose of dark cherry, currant, herbs and vanilla. Great mouth feel with ripe dark fruits surrounded by chocolate and caramel with a hint of green pepper adding complexity. Really long finish. looking forward to watching this progress over time. 93

 

2008 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

 Pop and pour. Big nose of sweet dark fruits with a hint of spice. The palete is dominated by blackberry, cassis and a suprising amount of pepper, with some vanilla and a slight herbal note in the background. really drinking well with moderate tannins and silky texture. 92

 

 2006 Larkmead Vineyards Firebelle

 1 hr decant. Expressive nose of chocolate covered cherries, tobacco leaf and herbs. Medium plus body with blackberry, black cherry, tobacco, and some bell pepper. Long chocolate covered fruit finish, with moderate tannins. 92

2008 Larkmead Vineyards LMV Salon

2 hr decant expressive nose of black cherry cassis earth and sandalwood. Medium plus body of fresh blackberry, cherry, cedar, spices and a long mocha finish. Integrated tannins 93

 

2008 Larkmead Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc

 P&P. Good nose of citrus fruit, lemon grass and pineapples. Creamy start with meyer lemon, pineapples and herbs. With a more acidic lemon lime finish. 90

 

2007 Larkmead Vineyards LMV Salon

 1 hr decant. Expressive nose of blackberries, cherry, cedar and herbs. Blackberries, currants, espresso and vanilla bean on the palate. Long tannic finish. 92

 

2008 Larkmead Vineyards Firebelle

 Really big nose of sweet dark fruits and spice. I hr decant and drinking very well for a young wine loads of black and blue fruits with some vanilla and mocha finishing off with a nice earthy streak at the end. 93

 

 

DONELAN WINES

    I had the opportunity a few years back to pick up a case of Pax 06 Griffins Lair Syrah at a good discount while Joe Donelan and Pax Mahle were in the process of splitting up.( Joe, to my knowledge was the majority share holder of Pax and Pax Mahle was winemaker and minority shareholder.) Up to this point I hadn't had a lot of  positive experiences with the varietal and spent most of my time and resources on Cabernet and zinfandel. That wine opened my eyes to California syrah and started a new wine journey.
    It turns out Joe is from New England and I was lucky enough to attend a Donelan wine tasting at my local wine shop, www.wineconnextion.com/ to see how the new label stacked up.I wasn't disappointed and have been a buyer ever since.

White

2009 Donelan Chardonnay Nancie

Expressive nose of stone fruits, citrus,and almonds. Medium bright palate of fresh green apple, lemon curd, minerals and floral notes.Rich and mouth coating without being heavy long clean finish. 100% malo and neutral French oak.

2010 Donelan Chardonnay Nancie

 Expressive nose of stone fruits, citrus, nuts and chalk. Medium body, good acidity, Pineapple, lemon curd, hazelnut and honeysuckle. Deep and clean long finish

 

2008 Donelan Venus

 Expressive nose of tropical fruit, white flowers and spice. Bright body of pineapple cake, white peach, floral and spice notes. Medium plus finish.

2009 Donelan Venus

 Expressive nose of white peach,honeysuckle and light spice. Medium, well balanced palate of tropical fruits, honeysuckle and spice. Medium plus refreshing finish.

 Red

2008 Donelan Syrah Kobler Family Vineyard

 Expressive nose of blackberry, smokey oak, and black pepper. medium plus body blackberry, dark cherry, tobacco and pepper steak. medium plus tannic finish

 

2009 Donelan Syrah Kobler Family Vineyard

 Expressive nose of blackberry, white pepper, floral notes and smoked meat. Medium plus body of black raspberry, blackberry, pepper, and herbs. Long savory finish.

 

2008 Donelan Syrah Walker Vine Hill

 Expressive nose of black and blue fruits, olives and pepper. Medium plus body of blackberry pie, blueberry, smokey herbs and pepper. Long smooth finish.

 

2009 Donelan Syrah Walker Vine Hill

Expressive complex nose of black and blue fruits, roasted meat, herbs and black pepper. Medium plus lush body of blueberries, grilled pepper stek, cherry,and herbs. Great balance and mouth feel on a long medium tannic finish. Easily the best of the tasting IMHO.

2009 Donelan Syrah Cuvée Christine

 Moderate plus savory nose os smoked meat, pepper and black currants. medium plus fleshy body of pork fat, blackberry, currant, herbs and earth. Long drying finish.

 

2009 Donelan Cuvée Moriah

 Moderate plus nose of red cherry, violets, and pepper. Light plus body with good acidity of raspberry, kirsch, pepper and some wood notes and dried herbs. Medium plus smooth finish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Favorite wine podcasts.

    When I'm not drinking wine, like on my commute to and from work, here are a few of my favorite wine related podcasts to break up the ride. 

3 Wine Guys.
    Definitely my favorite. Informative and humorous, this is a really good listen.They usually switch from a themed podcast about a specific varietal, producer or region, to a What are we drinking blogcast that consists of any wines that they may have recently consumed. They provide a good amount of producer information while keeping it pretty light with no pretension.Somewhat inconsistent with the release of new podcasts.

Grape Radio.
  Enjoyable podcast with winemaker interviews, live seminars and controversial discussions.

Guild of Sommeliers.
  A little more high brow than the others, but fascinating to listen to actual blind tastings and the thought process used to determine the region, variety and vintage of selected wines.

I'll Drink to That.
  Levi Dalton's podcast that revolve around interviews with industry professionals including  sommeliers, distributors, producers and journalists.


And a shout out to Wine Library TV, Gary has a strong personality that some may not like, but the blind tastings are always fun to watch. They are no longer producing new shows but you can still download back episodes. I recommend searching out the brown bags and winemaker episodes.
  

Quick notes on New Years Champagnes

NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve

 Moderate stone fruit, citrus nose. Decent palate with toasty apple lemon notes.

Slightly disappointed as I expected alittle bit more.

 

NV Ruinart Champagne Brut Rosé

 Red cherry, raspberry nose, nice length with tart red fruits, creamy citrus and toast notes.

Always a favorite of ours, very consistent.

Happy New Year 

 

 

2012 Wines of the year

I thought I'd start my first blog with my favorite wine experiences, there have been a few.

RED WINE
Red

2010 Myriad Cellars Syrah Esther Block Las Madres Vineyard

Amazing nose right off the bat, full of black and blue fruits, black pepper and olives, gaining smoked meat notes as it opened. Lush palate that starts dominated by blackberry, blueberry, and pepper, turning more savory with time in the glass. Long silky finish.

 

2008 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Solari

1 hr decant. Super expressive nose of blackberry, creme de cassis, camphor and cocoa. Full palate of sweet blackberry liqueur,  tobacco leaf and cedar with a long mocha finish.

2009 Hobel Wine Works Cabernet Sauvignon Engelhard Vineyard

1 hr decant. Expressive nose of blackcurrants, spicy oak, smoke and leather. Big on the palate with chewy tannins showing dark cherry, plums, vanilla and spice. Long finish.

White wine.

 

2010 Liquid Farm Chardonnay Golden Slope

 Wow, this wine has it all. Expressive nose of lemon curd, stone fruits, some tropical fruit and wet stone. Medium body with flavors from citrus, ripe tropical fruits, stone fruits, vanilla and minerality that are seamless and balanced.

 

2010 Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc

 Big tropical fruit, citrus nose. Creamy pineapple lemon palate with a long bright finish with a hint of grass.

 

 

2010 Liquid Farm Chardonnay White Hill

 Expressive nose dominated by oyster shell and minerality with some lemon and tropical fruit notes. The palate is racy with the tropical fruit notes bringing you back to the new world, but the wine is still dominated by sea shell, stone and citrus notes. A long balanced finish letting you know you've had the best of both worlds.